Sunset NSL Silverliners #3 - Lighting Thoughts

Modeling Hint -

In O scale 0.017" = 1.0" prototype. Rounding 0.017 off; 0.020" = 1". This means a scale 2" x 4" is 0.040" x 0.080". Some measurements are right on. For example, a 6" x 12" is 0.125" x 0.250".

When working on your O scale model always think in increments of 0.020" when selecting material for your model.

How and with which products the lighting will be upgraded needs to be covered. This information will have an impact on how some of the upgrading will be done. Re-building or upgrading the Sunset Silverliners is much like scratch building a model. You have to proceed in an orderly fashion taking care of one part of the model at a time but at the same time keep in mind the entire model. As the model is being scratch built the need to take it apart and/or remove part of the model to accommodate an overlooked feature can ruin the model or take excessive time. Since lighting is often left to the last minute, it can be this type of problem.

The LED constant lighting supplied by Sunset seems to be too intense and uneven. Separate power units provide constant voltage to the headlights on each coach. I plan to replace the constant lighting stick with its internal power supply and at the same time use the Sunset supplied headlight with its power supply on the lead car only. How I intend to handle the headlight on the rear car will be left to a future posting. With this in mind, here are my pros and cons on some commercially available constant lighting products/methods.

Before going into potential lighting I have to voice my major gripe about traction models. In prototype interurbans and trolleys the front vestibule where the motorman in located is never lighted! This portion of the car should have a dark interior. All the other vestibules in the car or train should have lighting in them. Passengers and crew members need to see where they are going! Although many railways do not allow passengers to load or depart from the last vestibule of a train, the last vestibule is keep lighted. The trolley pole of the rear car may have to be replaced on the wire plus the rear car's lighted vestibule is easier to see at night by an approaching train. The message is: In models place lighting where it has to be including the vestibules!

Home Made Light Stick - This is a piece of wood or styrene of appropriate size with 1.5 v bulbs placed in it. For power a bridge rectifier and voltage drop "electronics" are installed either on the stick or somewhere on or in the model. Costs can vary depending upon your source of materials. Depending upon the electrical skill of the modeler the lights can flicker and have other electrical gremlins.

Miniatronics - I've used this vendor’s product in my 3-car CRT train. The LEDs are in fixed places. There is no LED at the end of the stick where the power supply is located. You will not have lighting in one of the model's vestibules. The stick can be cut shorter and the cut off LEDs reattached with wires soldered between the stick and the cut-off portion. The intensity of the lighting is too bright for my taste. Yellow or amber paint intended for painting glass can be used to paint over the LEDs to soften the lighting effect. If 1.5 v bulbs are attached to the stick, some burn out rapidly. Here is a URL for the product - http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=100-ICL-01&Category_Code=2_8&Product_Count=3

Micro Tronics - I have not used this product. From the info on the web this product looks interesting. It has LEDs fore and aft of the power supply while the balance of the LEDs can be moved. There are 2 "intensities" of LEDs. If you pick this product check both "intensities". The bright may be too bright. The power can be adjusted by you. I don't know if 1.5 v bulbs can be added or if LEDs can be located off the stick using wires. Here is the URL for the product: - http://www.microtronics-4-models.com/microtronics-4-models_003.microtronics-4-models

Dallee - This manufacturer is listed twice because there are 2 different products to consider. I have not used the Dallee LED light stick although I have some for another installation. This product is used by a professional model painter who lives in the Chicago area. The 10" long stick, which is appropiate in size for most trolleys or interrbans, has no LED at the end of the stick where the power supply is located. You will not have lighting in one of the model's vestibules. The stick can be cut shorter and the cut off LEDs reattached with wires soldered between the stick and the cut-off portion. The power can be adjusted by you. I don't know if 1.5 v bulbs can be added to the stick Here is the URL for the product: - http://www.dallee.com/LED_lighting.htm

Dallee Information Sheet

Don't buy the "Cool" lighting. It is far too bright for any railway modeling applications. I've been told they are so bright, the light can be seen through painted plastic! Choose either the "Warm" for modern applications or the "Amber" for old time applications.

BTW - the Ultra miniature connectors shown above in the Dallee information sheet are the same connectors used for the power unit (The power unit comes with the 2 sets of wiring shown.) just in case you need more connectors. They come in packages of 5.

Dallee - This is a constant voltage source small enough to be hidden in almost any location in the model. I have used this product with great success. The output voltage can be adjusted from 1.25 v on up. With this voltage regulator you are free to construct your own light stick with lights where you want them. The home built light stick can contain both bulbs and LEDs. Here is the URL for the product: http://www.dallee.com/AR%20power%20supply.htm

Dallee Information Sheet

I plan on using the Dallee Adjustable Regulated Power Supply module and make my own light sticks. There are 3 reasons for this decision.

1. The rear markers use 1.5 bulbs. I don't know if any of the premade constant lighting sticks with LED's can be used.

2. The lead car has a headlight with its own small power unit. It should be easy to attach the small power unit to track voltage.

3. 415 has an unusual floor plan. Making my own light stick with 1.5 bulbs gives me the best flexibility. When it comes time to make the light sticks and install the voltage unit, I'll explain more about how to diffuse the light and installation of the voltage control unit.

Dallee Instruction Sheet

The Adjustable Regulated Power Unit Supply module is small enough to be hidden almost anywhere in or under a model. I use 1.5 v bulbs with the module set at 1.25 v with great results. I'm so pleased with this unit I'm contemplating retrofitting some models with it.

Lighting, wiring, and making the light sticks will be covered when the models are re-assembled.

An outline of the postings of the work done to upgrade the Sunset models has been completed. The postings will be:

1. Introduction
2. Parts & Trucks
3. Lighting Thoughts
4. Interior, Seats, etc.
5. Bulkheads & Cabs
6. Couplers, Underbody & Steps
7. The Roof
8. Ends & Sides
9. Lighting & Assembly of Coaches
10. Introduction to 415
11. Trucks, Underbody & Interior of 415
12. Roof of 415
13. Lighting & Assembly of 415
14. Final Exterior Work
15. Prologue

The interior floor with seats and partition are next.

Cheers,

Ed