The parts of the puzzle are starting to fall into place with regards to the 2 coaches. The interior and exterior of the coach has to be cleaned. All the brass filings have to go. Be careful not the scratch the glazing. Wipe the glazing in only 1 direction using a moistened soft cloth or tissue. If there are pieces of brass on the cloth or tissue use a new one.
Dallee sells plugs and jacks separately to match those used with their adjustable power supply. Some of these were purchased to finish the wiring of the car. I always try to have electrical connections of the plug and jack type to make it easy to take apart and reassembled the car without unsoldering and resoldering of wires. In a later post you will be shown how to wire a coach for pole reverse.
A light stick has to be made starting with a full size drawing of what the 3 light sticks should look like. All landmarks are marked on the drawing. This will show if there are any overlapping features such as bulbs, mounting holes, bulkheads, etc.
Just in case I forgot to mention, the power trucks are held in place with nylon 2-56 screws. A brass 2-56 nut backs up the threads in the trucks bolster plate.
The Dallee adjustable power unit was "glued" inside of the lavatory. I set mine at 1.25 v. The 2 clear windows in the lavatory were frosted over. The 2 steel assembly blocks are weighing down the frosted material while the adhesive cures. Now, the car is ready for assembly.
With the floor is in place check for truck swing. Remove any material on either the truck or the body of the model for adequate truck swing. Now is the time to touch up any painting!
If you ever looked at the prototype NSL cars you may have noticed the amount of grease on this part of the car and coupler arrangement. The coupler has to swing very easily from side to side. The Graphogen does just that on the model. After the couplers are installed, install the pilots. Again, paint any areas requiring both painting and touch-up.
Now the models is assembled with the exception of the marker light bodies. Paint the base with the bulb and the body of the marker light an engine black. Make lenses if you do not have any. I color the lenses with permanent markers both inside and out. Glue the lenses in place - 2 green on the sides and red to the rear. Glue the marker light body onto the base All the glue mentioned is my fovarite bath tube caulk.
On my model I noticed one of the trolley hooks had been crushed so many times it broke off. Both trolley hooks were replaced with brass castings from Q-Car and painted.
Attach the trolley poles - test run your model! Don't forget to add grease to the gear box of the power trucks and oil any bearing surfaces.
My model ran for about 90 minutes by itself while I ran errands. The pole remained on the wire and the car was still running when I returned.