The above is true in this model and every model especially if the modeler scratch builds. Originally I scratch build models utilizing strip wood using the Bill Hoffman's methods of model building. Over time I switched to styrene building models having walls with thin cross sections. Something happen and my scratch-built cab for #49 didn't work out!
Models made using strip wood had slightly thicker walls due to the size of the wood strips available. Model walls seemed to be more ridged since wood does not flex as easy as styrene.
A new cab could have been built using wood. However, my strip wood supply was depleted plus my vision has been causing problems. I have to work in bright light plus there are other "problems".
To bypass the entire problem, I asked Jim Osborn to scratch-build the cab for me. To start out Jim had an interesting observation about the cab. The siding used to sheath to lower part of the cab is the same milled planking used to cover the lower section of walls for wainscot. It's a tongue and grove with a bead milled down the center of the board. Jim built the cab using a siding which match the wainscot.
Before placing the model cab in position on the frame, comments about how the cab looks in broadside photos of 49 are required.
First, the cab sits on the decking of the prototype. The cab is wider than the frame and the decking does not show in photos. This makes it hard to tell the cab does sit on the decking.
The bottom edge of the cab looks ragged. There's a thin metal band at the bottom with the boards of the siding sticking out below the metal band. When more detail is added to the model the ragged edge of the cab's siding will not show.
For the model, the cab can be either placed: 1. on decking, 2. on strips of styrene the same thickness as the decking which are applied on the frame members, or 3. on the framing without any decking or decking substitute.
I did 3. The cab was placed directing on the framing. Jim made the cab with a 1/8" thick floor.
Part of the reason for placing the cab directly on the framing was the length of the screw Jim supplied for the roof/electrical connection to be made.
This is the cab as supplied by Jim.
The roof was made with an overhang on the sides. This was sanded off by me.
The model with the cab on the frame.
Notice the 2 different styles of trolley pole bases like the prototype.
To pick-up the trolley voltage, a piece of styrene was ACC'd to the bottom of the brass frame. Stryene tubing was installed between the cab bottom and the piece of flat styrene. This guarenteed the 2-56 threaded rod from the roof would not "ground-out" on the brass frame. A brass washer and nut hold the roof onto the cab. There was just enough threaded rod to install the nut.
In the exact center of the bottom of the model is the washer and nut which cannot be covered-up by the brake cylinder.We'll continue with detailing the model in the next post.