To paraphrase Vane Jones, "Knowledge is of little value until shared with others."

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

The CA&E 312 is Now the AE&C 314 Part 1

A Dallee Adjustable Regulated Power Supply, Item #378, will be used to provide a constant current to 1.5 v bulbs. It will be hidden in the lavatory.

From experience I've found if the bulbs are placed 1.25" to 1.3" apart, the Dallee board an be set at 1.25 v and still provide adequate lighting for daylight or night running. You don't want the bulbs to be too bright. Remember this is a 100+ year old car and era.

This is only a partial photo of the interior of the roof. However, the 1.5 v bulbs can be seen. the wires going off to the right are for the bulb in the vestibule.

If you've read past post of this blog, you know I prefer bulbs over LED's. I make my own light sticks with the bulbs pointing down and out of the wooden stick. The amount of bulb sticking out controls the amount of light. On some models the bulbs have small plastic collars made to look like the socket the bulb is screwed into to.

As long as we're on lighting, let's cover another electrical topic. The CA&E and I presume the AE&C when operating under trolley wire ran with only the pole up on the 1st car. The 600 v trolley current was bussed between the cars. This means if I intend on operating my brass model with another car, plans should be made now to attach the cars electrically.

Do not use the couplers for this!  Constant electrical contact cannot be guaranteed, instead a wire jumper will be used the same as the AE&C. Trying to set up an insulated electrical port on a brass body car is difficult. Instead a hole the size of an insulated wire was made. At the same time, a wire was attached to the trolley side of the wiring in the roof.
Note the wire from the roof passing through the brass end. This will be the wire jumper.

Once the old paint is striped off the body and the body washed, it can be painted. I decided to paint the model with aerosol Rust-Oleum paint.

Before starting, the movable doors and traps were glued shut. Painting movable parts takes a long time. Even professional painters will glue parts like this shut. ACC was used for this part.

The body was first painted with Light Gray Automobile Primer. Time was taken in spraying the primer. Each coating was light to prevent over-spraying and running. The primer coat was inspected before proceeding.

The AE&C passenger equipment was painted a dark green. The exterior of the model was painted Hunter Green. Follow the instructions on the aerosol can carefully. More than one coat was required.

The parts of the model which were not intentionally sprayed dark green are the underbody and the interior including the vestibules.

The balance of the model was hand painted using Poly Scale paint. This paint is easy to use given you have master applying it with a brush. The window sashes and doors were painted D&RGW Freight Car Red. The underbody was painted Grimy Black. The vestibules were painted Zinc Chromate Primer. Finally, the interior was painted D&RGW Building Cream.

The roof was painted separately as part of its rebuilding. The exterior of the roof was painted a rust color. The interior of the roof was painted refrigerator white.

Decals were used for lettering and the car's numbers. A clear glaze was applied over the model to "lock" the decals in place.

The model had brass clips soldered under the windows in the main part of the interior to hold the glazing in place. To mimic glass, 0.020" thick clear styrene was installed in the main interior. 

In the vestibules the builder of the model had soldered brass U-shaped brass channel to hold the top and bottom of the glazing. Here 0.010" think clear styrene was used.

To hold the styrene in place diluted "Formula '560' Canopy Glue" was used. It was diluted with distilled water. Canopy glue is a white fluid which dries clear. If any get on the glazing where it will show, allow the glue to dry. Then, use a wet, with water, Q-Tip or other cotton swab to remove the excess glue.

A sub-floor was made from 0.020" styrene. When making a sub-floor always cut it slightly smaller than the interior floor space. The smaller size will allow the sub-floor to clear any obstacles, such as the glazing, during installation or removal. To center the sub-floor during installation, you may need to use small styrene strips along the walls of the interior.

For the partition and the lavatory walls 0.040" styrene was used. Part of the partition between the smoker and the balance of the coach was cut from the original brass and incorporated into the styrene. The seats are Kiel-Line plastic flip overs.

The trainmen and passengers came from various vendors. The Dallee adjustable voltage supply can be seen tightly tucked into the lavatory.
Clear bathtub caulk was used to attach the passengers and trainmen in place.

Next comes the installation of the trucks, electrical and the roof on the model.



No comments:

Post a Comment