To paraphrase Vane Jones, "Knowledge is of little value until shared with others."

Saturday, March 24, 2012

Sunset NSL Silverliners #12 – 415 Roof & Exterior

After reviewing photographs of the 415’s roof, it's apparent the roof of the Silverliner model is incorrect. The vents have to be changed and the trolley boards have to be altered.

These are 2 drawings Greg King made regarding the roof of 415.
Both drawings Greg King Collection

Lavatory Vents
Just like on the roofs of the coaches the lavatory vents have to be removed and replaced with vents looking like “Darth Vader” helmets. Note the location of the vents on the prototype car in Greg King’s drawing.

At the annual March O Scale Meet held in Chicago just this past week, I discovered Keil-Line Products of Wonder Lake, Illinois has a vent #48-243 Passenger Roof Vent, Streamlined, Utility which is very similar to the style of vent use on the roofs of the Silverliners. The top of the Keil-Line vent has to be smoothed and the vent possibly made shorter.

Cooking Vents
This series of photos show the correct vents and their locations. The last photo seals how the vents have to be located and the roof boards cut or altered. The horizontal pipe mounted on the roof is how the Seashore Museum brought electricity into the car.
Curt Seeliger Jr. Photo

Eric Bronsky Collection

A cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool is the preferred method of removing the current cooking vents on the roof of the model.

This photo is a close-up of the three kitchen vents. Note the unsupported strap metal from the Peter Smith stack. The photo following is the roof of my model marked as to the location of the three vents. You should mark your roof in the same way. Once the trolley boards are removed, locating where the new vents will be install will be difficult.

Both photos Curt Seeliger Jr. Photos 

If you look at the photographs of the roof you should notice the three vents are very close to the center line of the roof. In order to install the vents the trolley boards have to be cut and semi-circle cut-outs made in them. To do this, the trolley boards have to be removed.

The trolley boards can be removed by placing the thin blade of a scraper or screwdriver underneath the trolley boards between the roof cleats. Then gently twist the blade upward. Only the outer trolley boards are soldered to the roof cleats. In the photo you should be able to see the small piece of brass connecting the trolley boards together as a unit. Two roof cleats can also be seen.

As you pry the trolley boards off of your model, you should be able to loosen all 4 at one time. Start at one end of the model and gently work your way to the other end.

As I was removing the trolley boards off my model some of the roof cleats were also loosened. A few of the roof cleats remained soldered to the roof boards and came off the roof. At first I thought the removal of the roof cleats was bad. Then I realized the roof cleats would help to relocate the trolley boards when they had to be reinstalled.

Before doing anything to the roof boards file off any solder on both them and the roof cleats. Be sure the roof boards fit flat on the tops of the roof cleats.

The Peter Smith roof stack was installed first. Keeping in mind the markings on the roof and the approximate location of the roof stack in relationship to the trolley boards, a hole was drilled. The Peter Smith stack was cemented in place using gap filling, slow curing ACC.

The next vent is the exhaust vent for the cooking grill. It looks like a large utility vent. Note the louvers on the end. For my model I used a cast brass utility vent. To make the louvers at the end of the vent, 0.028” diameter brass wire was soldered onto the end. Then a small triangular file was used to file out the solder between the brass wires. At the same time the filing shaped the round brass wires into louvers or teeth.

To finish off this exhaust vent, the brass casting was covered with 0.010” thick styrene. The top and bottom of the casting was covered over first. The casting and styrene were sanded to shape. Then the two sides of the casting were covered with styrene. The casting and styrene with sanded again. This gave the vent more bulk and made it look more like an exhaust vent.

Instead of a brass casting you can do the same with utility vent from either Current Line or Q-Car. Instead of soldering the brass wires to the vent, use ACC. Once the ACC is cured file the wires to shape. After the wires are filed to shape clad the vent with styrene.

This vent can now be installed on the roof. You should have noticed the back of this vent is located directly on the center line of the roof.

The last kitchen vent to be installed is a 12” globe vent. There are many manufacturers of this style of vent. Locate where the vent should be installed and glue it in place.

On my model the roof boards had come apart. One board was separate from the others. As each of the 3 vents were installed, the roof boards were either cut off and/or filed so a semi-circle of metal was removed to clean the vent.

On your model take note of which boards have round notches filed into them so they will fit around a vent. To cut the roof boards, a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool can be used. As the roof boards are being cut and filed, be careful to keep all four roof boards aligned.

There is one other object on the roof of 415. In the center line of the roof and to the #2 end side of the Peter Smith stack is a hatch on the roof boards that is hinged in its center. Sometimes when the car is in use this hatch is open to the leeward side.
Curt Seeliger Jr. Photo

To prepare to mount a hatch on the roof boards, the area under the location of the hatch has to be prepared. This can be done by gluing two styrene strips between two roof cleats. When the glue has dried file the styrene strips flat with the roof cleats.

After the roof boards are cut and filed the fit around the vents glue them onto the roof cleats with ACC. Allow the ACC to cure overnight before going further.

The hatch in the center of the roof boards has to be finished. They can be made from styrene and glued in place using ACC.

I don’t know if you have noticed one additional object on the roof near the kitchen vents. It appears in the photograph below. It looks like an electrical outlet or housing. No one has been able to identify it. It can be made from a couple of styrene strips and glued in place with ACC. If you skip this object nobody will be able to tell.

Roof Mats
The roof mats have to be replaced as they were on the coaches.

Roof Repainting
Once the vents and roof mats have been corrected the roof can be prepared for repainting. Floquils Weathered Black paint was used.

Window Vent
Exactly what you plan on doing depends upon your modeling skills. The lesser of 2 evils would be to install frosted glass in both the upper and lower panes of glass.

If you feel up to it, then cut 2 pieces of 0.060” styrene to fit to the upper and lower panes of glass.

Archer Fine Transfers  sells “Resin louver mix O-scale" #AR88055. Select the correct length of louvers from the assortment. Carefully follow Archer’s instructions. The piece of styrene for the lower pane has to be primed prior to apply the decal film.

Cut out the appropriate amount of louvers and apply them to the primed piece of styrene. If you look at the other similar vents on the cars you will noticed the vents are boxed in. Use a similar size styrene strips to box in the vents.

I finally discovered the Humbrol red paint with 6 drops of black is the shape of red to match the NSL red used on the Silverliners. Again depending upon your skill either paint the styrene strips before or after mounting them on the windows. I used “Kwik Seal” as the glue.

Hand/Foot Grab Irons
The hand/foot grab irons should have been done along with the coaches. If not, you need to install them. Refer to prior posts on the topic.

Hand Rail & Chain Inside Diaphragm
These should have been done along with the coaches. If not, you need to install them. Refer to prior posts on the topic.

Kitchen Window Screens
The 2 kitchen windows had screens mounted on them year round. I have not made the screens for my 415/ However, I plan on making and mounting the screens sometime in the future. When this event happens, it will be posted in this blog.


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