As the Posts were published on building the track work, I started to notice there were modelers who didn't necessarily know what was required to place the castings into use. After the fact I'm covering the information needed to place the castings into use. Also, the titles of the Posts covering the installation of the castings into a street turnout have been simplified.
I found it easier to install the brass tubing used to control the turnout point after the castings are soldered to the PC ties but prior to attaching the castings to the layout. It's time to re-read the written instructions which come with the castings.
The 2 castings making up the point and mate of the turnout soldered to ties. Rail connectors have been added. Any soldered joints requiring cleaning can be cleaned as the turnout is built.
A 1/16" diameter brass rod is to be used to control the single turnout point. My way of installing the brass rod and the tubing used to hold the rod is different from the printed instructions included in with the castings. While I install and solder the brass tubing before the casting is installed in the street. I don't install and solder the turnout point to the brass rod until the turnout is completed.
Check the hole in the big casting commonly called the point casting. You should be able to see through the hole. On the bottom of the casting is a nipple onto which the brass tubing will be soldered. The 1/16" brass rod fits into a 3/32" diameter brass tube. Cut the 3/32" brass tube about 1/4" longer than the thickness of the layout top.
A 1/4" diameter brass tube will be used as a collar to hold the 3/32" brass tubing to the point casting. Cut the 1/4" brass tube 3/16" to 1/2" long. Apply soldering flux to the nipple on the casting plus the 3/32" and 1/4" tubing. Soldering all these parts together.
The brass tubes have been soldered to the bottom of the point casting. Drilling out the tubes after soldering will get rid of any excess solder inside the tubes.
During the soldering process keep the brass tubing square to the bottom of the point casting. If you're having problems keeping the brass tubes square to the nickel silver castings, a long piece of 1/16" aluminum rod inserted into the hole in the point casting and the brass tubing will help.
After the soldering is completed, drill out the hole for the 1/16" brass rod using a #51 twist drill. This drill is slightly larger than 1/16". This will make it easier for the 1/16" rod to rotate. During the drilling process don't be surprised if you drill out some solder and brass.
The point/mate assembly can be installed on your layout. Now the turnout point casting can be examined and cleaned-up. Drill out the hole for the turnout point with a #51 drill.
My fingers are holding the turnout point which has been cleaned up with a file and the hole drilled for the brass rod.
Slip the turnout point into the larger casting. If the holes in the layout top are off center, the small arm on the turnout point may not fit into the casting. If this happens use a sharp knife or cutting blade to enlarge the hole.
Slip a 1/16" brass rod into the point casting and through the brass tubing soldered to the point casting. DO NOT SOLDER THE TURNOUT POINT TO THE BRASS ROD YET!!! This will be done when the street turnout is complete. You do not want this rod to be sticking down under the layout while other work needs to be done. Do not allow this rod to be bent.
The point should move easily from side to side using your finger nail. If not, grind or file the turnout point until everything fits and works. Most of the time the turnout point will fit and move without any filing.
The turnout during testing of the point. (For ease of viewing and testing, the testing is being done in my hand so all the parts can be seen.) It should move freely back and forth. If the point is too long file the end to fit the casting. If everything works as planned, the castings can be installed on the layout. Remove the brass rod and point during the installation.
More to come, cheers,
Ed
